The Perfume Counter is The Strand Arcade’s new series, designed to emulate the experience of visiting a boutique perfumery. In our first instalment, the spotlight is on luxury perfume house Santa Maria Novella’s scent, L’Iris. Here, we’ll break down everything you need to know about the fragrance, from the notes to its backstory and precisely how to wear it.

The origin of Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Few perfume brands can trace their origins back to the 13th century. In 1221, a group of Florentine friars started the convent of Santa Maria Novella, planting and tending to an elaborate garden. What began as a hobby led to the friars distilling their own essences and extracts, primarily to be used medicinally. The first evidence of scented waters created by the friars appeared in 1381, but it wasn’t until 1533 that the group began producing wearable essences. Caterina de Medici commissioned the friars to create a special essence for her to wear to her wedding to King Henry II — a union which made her Queen of France. The essence, named Acqua della Regina, transformed Santa Maria Novella into a perfumery renowned across Europe. Today, it remains one of the house’s best selling scents.

Behind L’Iris

In 2022, Santa Maria Novella thought it time to try their hand at creating an eau de parfum. Where better to start, then, than with the symbolic flower of Santa Maria Novella’s hometown? L’Iris pays homage to the beauty and history of Florence and the delicacy of the flower from which the fragrance derives its name. A symbol of protection in Ancient Greece, the iris possesses unique rhizomes which lend the scent its distinct fragrance. Requiring six years of maturation, L’Iris is a testament to Santa Maria Novella’s dedication to tradition and excellence.

Scent notes

L’Iris is floral, but despite the name, not overly so. Green without being herbaceous and ever so slightly musky, first comes a floral, citrusy scent of neroli, followed by a soft and spicy pepper note. Geranium, magnolia and jasmine are the heart, while musk and Iris Fiorentina (Florentine iris) finish the fragrance. With a delicate, powdery wearability, it’s the kind of scent Miss Honey from Matilda might have worn, were she a fan of the brand.

Where to wear it

L’Iris is ideal for sunny spring days: a trip to the markets on a Saturday morning, a languid picnic in the Botanic Gardens, afternoon spritzes in the sun. It’s romantic — a good day date scent — without being overpowering or sultry.

Smell L’Iris at Santa Maria Novella on Ground Floor.